El Huarache Azteca

Located in Highland Park, El Huarache Azteca was recommended to me by a good friend of mine. I decided to take him up on the recommendation and we headed out there a couple of days ago.

This locale specializes in the "huarache". Huarache is a popular Mexican dish consisting of an oblong, fried masa base, with a variety of toppings. The name "Huarache" is derived from the shape of the masa, similar to the popular sandals of the same name. The word Huarache is originally form Purepecha or Tarascan and the Nahuatl word for huarache is kwarichi. Huaraches are similar to sopes but differ in shape.

My friend had a Huarache of tripas (tripe). He asked for the tripas to be cooked well, actually, crispy. When they brought his Huarache, it was pleasing to the eye and well dressed. The tripas were indeed well cooked and crispy. He was definitely pleased with his dish.

There was a fairly well stocked salsa and vegetable bar...except for the radishes. But once the staff was told about this, they brought us a generous helping of radishes and lemons right to our table. The "chile de arbol" salsa was excellent (that's the dark red, almost brown one), and their avocado green salsa was good as well.

Now to my selections. I had two Huaraches, one of "al pastor" and one of "chicharron". Both were well presented, with a healthy portion of meat and an excellent combination of toppings. Their cheese and cream were fresh and the meats were well prepared and hot. I topped the chicharron with the dark, chile de arbol salsa, and I chose the green avocado one for the al pastor. I was really impressed with the chile de arbol salsa. It definitely had a kick to it, but it was not overpowering and the flavor of the whole salsa came through very well. Overall, my Huaraches were delicious!

I drank an agua de melon (melon water). It was well balanced in thickness and flavor: not too thick and not too sweet. Good choice to cool down the palette if you are spice-sensitive.

Now to some of the negatives. The place is small. Too small. Seating is very limited, we actually had to sit outside at one of the tables on the sidewalk. The whole set-up is awkward and it is hard to know where to order and where to pay, as the register is very hidden, almost impossible to find. The parking is very small and you are actually better off parking on the street.

The place definitely lost some points with me on the above, and I would not take a date there the first time out. But even with those negatives, the food and the service would compel me to come back to this little hole-in-the-wall restaurant.

And of course, my buddy down here holding the sign definitely gave the place some character!

Rating: ♦♦♦1/2

Huarache Azteca

5225 York Blvd.

Los Angeles, CA 90042

(323)478-9572